Norwegian National Day - 17. Mai

The 17 May, or ''syttende mai'' as it is known locally marks the Norwegian Independence Day. It is a big celebration in Norway and although it is said to be a day for children, you see people of all ages getting excited in anticipation of the event.

The day is a holiday and because of this I normally leave the country for a long weekend of Munro bagging in Scotland. This year it fell on a weekend and I was at home in Bergen so I had no excuse but to find out what all the fuss was about.

I woke up to the sound of canons being fired and the sound of the Buekorps drumming in the street below my window. Although this day is celebrated throughout Norway the drumming is unique to Bergen. The Buekorps is made up of groups of children, mostly boys who march through the streets drumming. It is thought to date back to 1856 and originates from the old police force or brigades. Unfortunately for those residing in town, the Buekorps start their drumming practise as early as March and are heard early on many a weekend morning and throwing eggs at them is not the done thing. On this morning I could hear how proudly they beat their drums after all their hours of practise – and my hours of painful listening. On the plus side, the arrival of 17 May meant that from this day and onwards for the rest of the year I could look forward to Sunday free drumming.

I had arranged to meet Cecilie to watch the parade of people that would march through town. I dressed relatively smart knowing how important the day was and headed out. Immediately out of my door I joined a steady stream of people who were walking in the same direction and proudly wearing the National Dress – the Bunad. Feeling out of place in my modern day attire I allowed myself to be carried along the old narrow cobbled streets that are lined with wonky wooden houses and that lead to town.

The Bunad is typically of rural origin and are local to the different regions of Norway. The ladies Bunad is made of thick wool, mostly black but can be seen occasionally in green, red and white and is ornate with elaborate embroidered designs, scarves, shawls and handmade silver or gold jewellery. It is worn over a white shirt which is also embroidered. Accessories also vary according to status, for example red tights are worn by the unmarried and black by the married. The tradition is mostly held by women are typically bought for them for their confirmation. At 3000 pounds a pop though they are only replaced once in a lifetime with the onset of middle age spread. Apart from 17th May the Bunad is worn at weddings and other formal social gatherings.

I was quite moved to see Cecilie wearing her Bunad from Alesund (see picture). We wandered the streets watching the parade and Cecilie educated me on different bunad styles and meanings. Although even Cecilie couldn’t explain the punk rocker clad in Bunad but for me it meant this was a day that people of all walks of life felt united.

Also a tradition that ends on the same day is the celebration period of the end of schooling for Upper secondary school students. For the 3 weeks leading up to this day kids are seen dressed in red dungarees (or other colours depending on their line of study) with the words Russ down the side. Their time is spent partying hard both day and night, hanging around on street corners and goading each other to do silly things. Those from the more affluent families transport themselves around town in self-decorated buses and vans with slogans and booming music. After this day they have to buckle down and hope to pass their looming exams.

I have to say that I am really happy that I was in Norway to see at least one 17 May celebrations. It is quite a unique experience and as one person described it – it’s comparable to going to a wedding in a folk museum.

For a summary of the history of events leading up to the 17 May celebrations see here.